Local Fish for Dinner
The Jersey OCL team have supporting Blue Marine Foundations recent campaign which encourages locals to fill the fridge and give the community a boost by having #LocalFishForDinner
Dave Ferguson and the OCL have team been out and about over the last few weeks during lockdown, catching up with local fishermen here in Jersey and pledging their support by promoting the location and catch of each supplier.
No matter where you are in Jersey, you are never more than ten minutes away from the sea. This is an island that twice a day the change of the huge thirty-foot tide brings an abundance of fresh shellfish, crabs and lobsters close to the island’s shores. Bringing with it plentiful opportunity to explore and forage for wild sea herbs along the coast.
The island's appreciation for seafood is deep rooted. Even during the second world war, when Jersey was occupied by the Germans, the sea was our greatest friend. Whilst fishermen were shut down to limit escapes by boat, islanders got experimental with limpets, winkles and razorfish to supplement their diet. Exchanging recipes and relying on community spirit was what got many islanders through this turbulent time. Although the island was under tight occupation, with most natural resources being retained by the Germans, it was the local knowledge of the vast tides and marine life that gave them the advantage to survive and thrive in such demanding times, passing down this resilience and attunement to the ocean for generations to come.
Fast forward 75 years, the 130-vessel fleet of fishermen face yet another stark challenge with export markets and the restaurant trade grinding to an immediate halt. Under normal circumstances about 80% of Jersey’s catch, mainly shellfish is exported and it is estimated that around three-quarters of the fish consumed in Jersey is imported. COVID-19 recent lockdowns across Jersey’s biggest buyers of shellfish (Italy, Spain and France) means fishermen are now relying on local consumer demand to see them through.
As Covid -19 began to shut business down in Jersey, it was the fishing industry that was one of the first gravely impacted. It was a matter of days into this global crisis that our local media shared the immediate concern at the risk of losing these valued fishermen of the island's heritage. Once again Jersey’s ocean culture community quickly stepped up to support each other and we began to see floods of photos on social media of the beach long queues of islanders turning up to purchase a fresh catch and support local. Our fishermen adapted to serve and supply local households rather than their usual exporting of produce and this has had a positive impact and influence to businesses island wide. We’ve witnessed a resurgence of prepping and cooking fish as an activity to not only keep busy, but also educate the island's younger generations. Subsequently islanders have developed a newfound appreciation both for their dinner and our local fishermen. Local chefs are also getting involved, hosting live cooking demonstrations with seasonal fish hoping to encourage islanders to use this time and get creative in the kitchen.
Whilst some fishermen still very much sell directly to their merchant, others are forced to sell directly to the public in order to ensure the future of their livelihoods. To help them do this, a local Facebook group, the Jersey Alternative Fish Market, has been set up to collate all the advertised produce and already has over 10k members (10% of the islands population). Families line the beaches and harbours to collect their fish, whilst the ease of the virtual group allows fishermen to keep the community up to date with their stocks. Meanwhile some fishermen have been donating leftover stock to emergency service workers from makeshift stalls.
Earlier in this year we witnessed fishermen in Jersey taking to the streets, calling on the government to better protect the island's waters and to take back control to protect the industry. Many fishermen were nearly forced out of business when bass fishing laws were introduced a few years ago, and fish stocks plummeted. Fortunately these have been lifted and are still being monitored by the States of Jersey Fisheries and Marine Resources department whilst also patrolling island waters checking on fishing boats whether local or not.
Long term plans between the fishing industry and the Government of Jersey are still in negotiations as the future and livelihoods of commercial fishermen will become a fine balance of sustainability, good practice, and a demand from local restaurants and hotels.
Working on the sea has always been a difficult way of life as fishermen are dependent on the weather and winter months can be stormy and too dangerous to venture out. Big tides and heavy conditions present the fishermen with challenges and loss of gear. As a result it’s becoming clear that we must work to disassociate the purchase of local fish with the warmer months and work to sustain a local, seasonal demand all year round.
With time comes the art of reflection and with this we’re seeing a surge in islanders checking in with their local suppliers and very much enjoying both the process and end result of delicious fresh seafood. Don Thompson, president of the Jersey Fishermen's Association, has urged Islanders to keep buying local and said as demand increases so will the range of supply.
Our island has really united as a community in this time of global reckoning. Together we have remembered that our connection to one another is the most important thing and is what will sustain us as a strong island community. Appreciation grows as we value nature's gifts to us from our oceans and as we use our knowledge to protect it for the benefit of all. Post COVID, we’re working towards a time where fish and seafood can once again become a big part of the gourmet offering in Jersey, with fishermen supplying local households and restaurants with seasonal catches rather than having to rely on exporting 80% of their catch.
It’s become clear that we have been given an opportunity to get innovative and hit the reset button. Working together to craft a more sustainable future for both our extraordinary marine estates and our fishermen.
We optimistically hope that fishing will continue to be an integral part of Jersey life for centuries to come and for Jersey’s current fishermen to pursue a living from the sea.
